Category Archives: Camino de Santiago

Camino de Santiago, Spain

Camino redo from Lugo

In September of 2021 we started the Camino de Santiago known as the Primitivo route. It begins in Oviedo and is 321 kilometers to Santiago. We left from Oviedo and after incuring an injury we had to stop in Lugo. See this entry for the details  https://chaputfootprints.com/?p=18542

After two years we returned to Lugo to complete what we had started two years earlier..

Shelley and Ray on their way to start Camino de Santiago

Our trip began with an 8 hour train from Alicante to town of Ourense in Galicia then we took a bus to Lugo. 

Ray and Shelley on the bus heading to Lugo

We arrived in the early evening in Lugo and checked into our Hotel.  Excited and anxious to start our camino the next day. Our day began early and we started out at sunrise.

Shelley on our first early morning trek on the Camino de Santiago from Lugo

We reached the camino marker that also marked the end of the camino for Shelley two years earlier.

Shelley at the camino marker outside of Lugo

She stopped and put a new rock on the marker and then we continued along the camino. There were many beautiful spots along the camino and over the next five days we would wake up early and walked long hours.  Below are some of the spots along the way. 

Although the journey was hard, it was very rewarding with special spots and memories along the way.  The experience was enhanced when we finally reached Santiago de Compostela. To stand at the Cathedral of Santiago and look at it gave us a sense of accomplishment. It was a happy and emotional time even though our bodies were sore and tired. 

Shelley and Ray at the Cathedral of Santiago

We managed to find a nice table near the cathedral and sat down to relax and take in the moment.

Shelley and Ray near the Cathedral of Santiago

After checking into our hotel and settling in we headed to get our compostela. We arrived at the compostela office and within 10 minutes had our certificates.

Ray and Shelley’s certificates of completion -Compostela de Santiago and camino stamp passport

We spent the day relaxing and had a nice meal to celebrate the adventure and achievement.

Shelley and Ray toasting the finish of the Camino de Santiago

The following day we headed home to prepare for our next adventure.

Shelley and Ray heading home from the Camino de Santiago

“Hasta la próxima, buen Camino y disfruta de cada paso de la vida.”

Camino de Santiago, Spain

The final days of the Camino

I knew I had only a few days left to reach Santiago de Compostela and wanted to arrive early on the last day. Each morning I would get up very early and begin my camino at around 6AM. It was still dark and I would walk using a headlamp that helped me to see the trail. On the last day of the camino I started at 5:30 a.m. and noticed that there were some bats that were following me along the trail. They would sweep down in front of me.  At first I was not sure why they were flying so close to me then I noticed that they were catching the moths and bugs that were drawn to the light of my headlamp. The bats were enjoying a meal while we walked together on the trail. 

When I reached the final ten kilometres marker it seemed that it was extra long because I was excited to finish the camino. I wanted to see Shelley and rest up from the camino.

10 kms marker for the Camino de Santiago
Ray in front of a statue along the camino

When I got the the city it was a little different as you walk through the city before reaching the cathedral. I stopped at the iconic wall marker which people put memorials, photos etc at the marker.

Marker on the camino at Santiago de Compostela

I stopped and left my rock at the marker, giving thanks for all that I have had in life. Afterwards I continued along the camino until I reached cathedral de Santiago. It was an amazing feeling of joy to finally arrive but also a little sad knowing that the camino was completed.

Ray at the Cathedral de Santiago

At the end of the camino Shelley was waiting for me at the cathedral. We met up and celebrated the end of my camino and we enjoyed a few days exploring the city of Santiago de Compostela. 

¨buen Camino¨

Camino de Santiago, Spain

Leaving Lugo on the camino towards Santiago de compostela

We had rested up in Lugo and Shelley’s  knee was feeling better. We headed out early and restarted our journey along the camino. It was a beautiful morning and one of the first sites we came to was the Roman bridge at the outskirts of Lugo.  At the foot of the bridge was a statue of a Roman standing guard.

Statue of Roman guarding the Roman bridge

Roman bridge at the outskirts of Lugo

We took our time and enjoyed a slow pace and scenery as we progressed.

After a while Shelley’s knee began to hurt.   We stopped along the way a few times but her knee continued to get worse.  We walked along the camino for approximately 7 kms when Shelley’s knee was inflamed and very painful. We were afraid that it could cause some permanent damage to her knee. We decided that I should continue the camino alone and that she would take at taxi the remaining way to Santiago. There was a camino marker where we stopped so Shelley placed her stone on the marker. We contacted a taxi and she went ahead via taxi to Santiago de Compostela.

It was a sad time for us but we knew that it was the right choice. At this point I began the remainder of the camino solo.  I continued along the camino until I reached a small shrine along the side of the trail. It was quite peaceful and a perfect spot for me to stop and enjoy a snack.

I continued along the camino which was ascending over time, I came to some beautiful views and trails in that area of the camino..

I even met some of the local animals along the camino.

I walked another 20 some kilometres before stopping for the night. It was a day of mixed emotions I was sad not having Shelley with me on this section of the camino. I knew it was only 70 kilometres or so to go and I was excited to finish the last few days to arrive in Santiago.

¨Buen camino¨

Camino de Santiago, Spain

Our stay in Lugo

When we got to Lugo Shelley´s knee was quite sore and swollen. We decided to stay in Lugo for a few days and take a break in the hopes her knee would get better. We were staying in the old town area of the city. This area is within the Roman walls of the city.

We walked along the outside of the fortified wall system until we reached one of the ten entrances in the wall system.

One of the five original Roman gates referred to as the porto de San Pedro

The Roman wall of Lugo was designated a UNESCO world Heritage site in 2000. The walls of Lugo were built in the later part of the 3rd century to defend the Roman town of Lucus Augusti. The entire length of the wall survives intact which is over two kilometres and is the finest example of late Roman fortifications in western Europe.

Outer view of the Roman wall in Lugo

We settled into Lugo for a few days of rest and took short walks the first day to explore some of the city.  It was not long before we noticed a very Roman look to parts of the city.

Ray on the Roman chariot

There were several access points along the Roman wall which allowed people to walk along the top of the wall.

One of the access points to the top of the Roman wall

We decided to walk the entire wall exploring the views from the top of the wall.

One of the views from the top of the Roman wall

We walked along the entire wall which is quite large. The wall width  is around 4.2 metres (14 ft) and their height varies between 8 metres (26 ft) and 12 metres (39 ft). We took our time and stopped along the way to admire the views and take in the moment.

Shelley on the top of the Roman wall in Lugo

There was some unique and beautiful views from the top of the wall.

We came across a unique part of the wall which had remains of a tower section.

Ray and Shelley at the tower section of the Roman wall

The following day we explored some of the parks and squares of Lugo. We came across some interesting people along the way.

We stoped along our walk and took time to enjoy some refreshments at one of the many bars in Lugo.

Shelley and Ray enjoying a refreshment at one of the bars in Lugo

We came across some great spots to eat and enjoy a refreshing drink. Ray even tried a specialty of Spain called “oreja de cerdo”. It is fried pig ears in a sauce. Ray did not enjoy it because the ears were really spongy and had very little actual meat on them.

Oreja de cerdo

One restaurant even had it´s own Camino Marker inside the restaurant.

Camino marker inside a restaurant in Lugo

We enjoyed our rest and stay over in Lugo, it was time that we could rest up and prepare for the next sections of the camino Primitivo. Shelley´s knee was doing better and so we packed our last evening preparing to start out early the next day to continue the camino adventure.

“Buen Camino”

 

Camino de Santiago, Spain

Highlights of some of the Camino De Santiago -Primitivo

The different days along the Camino De Santiago are unique and yet very similar in some aspects. Although each day brings new vistas and experiences they also bring similarities and rituals. Each morning we would awake early and get ready for the day.  There was a ritual of cleaning up, stretches and applying our anti blister balm on our feet before starting the days camino.  We would start out without breakfast or coffee. Walking the camino until we would find a place to stop for breakfast and coffee. On other days we would take our coffee and snack to go.

snacks and coffee on the go.

We carried a small amount of food in case of long gaps between places. On some days it was not until noon or even later before we came to our first cafe or food spot. 

From the town of Salas we continued to head upwards higher into the mountains of northern Spain.  It seemed at times that we were always ascending or descending. 

Shelley along one of the many climbs towards the windmill along the Camino Primitivo

At this point Shelley had twisted her knee and it was causing her difficulty and pain. We decided to send out packs ahead to lessen the weight on her knee. We would take more breaks along the way. This was also a chance to stop and enjoy the amazing views. 

Going up towards the windmills on the Primitivo
The Dam at the reservoir of Embalse de Salime on the Camino Primitivo.

This dam was amazing to see and is a designated world heritage site.

Ray along the ridge area of the camino de Primitivo
The view along the primitivo in the upper section of the mountains.

The further along we went unfortunately the worse Shelley´s knee became until we decided that we would stop at Lugo and take a few extra days to recuperate and see if her knee would get better. 

The primitivo is an amazing route with spectacular views. Here are just some of the vistas we saw along our way to Lugo from Salas. It was an amazing section of the primitivo but not for the faint of heart as the route is very taxing and difficult with steep and long ascends through the mountains. 

We arrived at Lugo and we were grateful for the few days of rest before continuing on the camino. The city of Lugo is beautiful and we enjoyed being a tourist in the city for a while.. But that is for another post.

“Disfruta de cada momento y experiencias de la vida”