Tag Archives: Retirement abroad

Morocco

Fez, Royal Palace and the Medina

We spent the day exploring Fez which is the second largest city in Morocco and considered as the the “Mecca of the West” and the “Athens of Africa”. The city was first founded in 789 and has a rich and interesting history. Our first stop was at a lookout that provided us with amazing views of Fez. We walked along the wall and looked at the different views of the city. It truly is a large and unique city.

After admiring the beautiful vistas, we headed to the Royal Palace in Fez. The 80-hectare Dar al-Makhzen known as the Royal Palace has some ornate gates which were built in 1969.

Front of the Royal Palace in Fez
Ray and Shelley in front of the Royal Palace doors

They are the main feature visible to the public, the grounds are not open to the public. The Palace and grounds are still used by the King of Morocco when he is visiting the city.

After visiting the Royal Palace we went to the UNESCO world site, the Medina of Fez. It has 9400 narrow alleyways and streets which would make it very easy to get lost. We were fortunate to have a local guide who lived in the Medina most of his life. 

Our guide explaining the Medina

It was very interesting walking though the Medina, there are no motorcycles or vehicles of any kind permitted in the Medina. In fact the Medina is the largest vehicle free zone in the world. The only way to move merchandise or supplies is by donkey or pushcart. We began our walk in a larger area of the Medina where the alleyway was wider than most.

Ray and Shelley in the Medina of Fez

As we walked along it wasn’t long before we found ourselves in narrow alleyways.

We followed our guide through these very narrow alleyways and explored unique areas of the Medina.

Our guide leading us through one of the narrow alleyways in the Medina

Some of the alleyways were completely covered and it felt like walking through a narrow tunnel.

The Medina has over eight kilometers of city walls and has an estimated population of 200,000 living within the Medina. Each area has a mosque, school and other traditional services. It felt like we were walking back in time to centuries earlier.

Each alleyway had a marker which indicated the name of the alley.

The doors of homes were unique and had two door knockers. One was set higher and made a different sound, which was for non family visitors. This provided a unique sound letting the homeowner know it was not family. The second knocker lower into the door was for family who were familiar members of the home.

Traditional door of a home within the Medina of Fez

The Medina of Fez is considered as one of the most extensive and best conserved historic cities of the Arab-Muslim world. We walked along the unpaved alleys and spaces which seemed to have frozen in time and not been destroyed by modern times. This was an amazing feeling to wander the alleys and see people still making products by hand and selling products made right in the Medina.

Metal pots and copper pots being made on site and sold in the Medina

The people living inside the Medina walls also buy food and merchandise within the Medina. We came across many vendors of different foods.

Olives and other pickled items for sale at one vendor in the Medina

There was even camel meat for sale at one or two specialty shops. The shops would displayed the heads of the dead camels to advertise the fresh camel meat.

We eventually walked to the area of the dye-pits and to the tannery inside the Medina.

Material and wool being dyed by hand in the dye pits of the Medina

Wool being dried above us as we walk through an area of the Medina

We then went to the largest and oldest tannery in the city called the Chouara Tannery, which is located in the Medina. It is believed that this tannery has been operational since before the 12th century. The tanning industry in the Medina has been operating basically the same since the early centuries. There are round stones that are hollowed out and filled with dye or other white liquids for softening the leather hides.

View of the Tannery with the hollowed out stone vats used for the tanning process.
Leather hung to dry naturally

It was interesting to see the process and to walk through the store looking at the amazing hand crafted leather goods. After a few hours in the alleyways of the Medina we stopped for lunch. We enjoyed the time to sit and relax while taking in the aromas and sounds of the Medina.

The local food was delicious and overall it was surreal experience. After lunch we continued our exploration of the Medina for a while before heading out to start our next adventure. We really enjoyed our time exploring and walking through the Medina of Fez.

“لا تدع الخوف يمنعك من تجربة أشياء جديدة واستكشاف العالم”

 

Morocco

Off to the Sahara

We headed out into the Sahara to spend a night in a dessert Berber camp. The trip started by heading out either on a hour and half camel ride or go by Jeep through the dessert sands to the camp. We decided to try both ways so Shelley took the camel ride out to the camp and Ray went by jeep.  

The camels were lined up in groups of four or five and tethered together. The guide was very helpful and ensured eveyone got on ok and was comfortable.

Shelley was wearing her keffiyeh scarf and ready to head out on camel back.

 

Shelley on the camel ready to head to the Berber Camp site.

The trip on camel back was a slow paced walk allowing time to take in the views and experience the Sahara. It was quite the experience seeing the vastness of the Sahara. It is the World’s largest and most extensive hot desert in the world. The desert covers an area of 3.6 million square miles. 

Ray took a 4 X 4 ride out through the dessert reaching the Berber camp earlier than Shelley.

View of the berber camp from atop a nearby sand dune.

This gave him time to climb up a large sand dune and admire the sunset.

View of the dunes as the sun was setting.

We enjoyed a great evening having a traditional meal then taking in a bonfire with Berber singing and dancing before heading to our tent for the night.

Carpets lining the tents in the Sahara

The stars were amazing and we enjoyed an excellent evening under the stars. 

 

It was a very memorable time in the Sahara and we enjoyed this unique experience very much. 

“تبدأ الحياة على حافة منطقة الراحة الخاصة بك”

Morocco

Medina in Marrakech

We went to explore the UNESCO world Heritage site – the Medina of Marrakech. We began our day by meeting with our local guide Youssef. He was a very enjoyable guide with a great sense of humour and very attentive to us.

Shelley with Youssef in the background

The Medina which is located in the center area of Marrakech and is surrounded by around 19 kilometers of walls. The narrow streets and walkways are full of vendors, riads and souks.

It was amazing to walk the narrow streets and think about the long rich history of the Medina which was founded in the 11th century. We walked along the narrow streets and soon found ourselves in different sections of the Medina.

Pottery, baskets and other items for sale in the Medina

Metal lamps and other pieces of artwork for sale that were handmade on site.

We came to an area that was selling different spices. We could smell spices and there was an array of colours and spices on display. 

There was so many different spices to choose from including Morocco spices like Ras El Hanout used in Tagine meals. 

Ray and Shelley in front of a spice shop in the Medina of Marrakech

As we were walking along the narrow streets we could hear scooters and motorbikes behind us and at times we would need to be close to the wall as they drove by. 

There were also feral cats in the Medina and blended in without much problem. 

Feral cats within the Medina

Scooter in the Medina with Feral cat laying on the back

The streets sizes in the Medina vary from small to almost an impassive alleyways.

One of the many narrow alleyways in the Medina

We walked along the alleys were you could smell the food and sweets that were being made right there. 

There was even a vender selling pickled lemons, olives and other unique items.

Vendor selling pickles, olives and preserved lemons
One of the wider alleys in the Medina of Marrakech
Narrow alleyway in the Medina

It was easy to get lost walking through the Medina, there were small alleyways and turns which made it feel like a maze. We were fortunate to have a guide and able to find our way without much trouble. Each alleyway had a name and a sign posted above.

There was a 6.8-magnitude earthquake that struck in Morocco’s High Atlas mountain range at 11:11 p.m. local time on Friday, Sept. 8, 2023. The earthquake cause some major damage inside the Medina in Marrakech. We could see where some of the ancient structures had been reinforced as a result of the earthquake.

We walked around the Medina taking in the sites and sounds. We arrived at Jemaa el Fna which is a huge open square in the center of the Medina. In the square there were snake charmers, monkey handlers, and different types of vendors. 

Snake Charmer with cobras and other snakes

Berbers dressed in the traditional Berber attire in the Medina Square
Ray in front of the Koutubia mosque in the Medina of Marrakech which was damaged from the Earthquake.

After walking through the narrow streets and alley ways of the Medina for a few hours we stopped for lunch in the Jemaa el Fna square.

Our sitting area in the restaurant overlooking the Medina

We went to the roof top of a local restaurant and enjoyed some traditional Morocco food while observing the hustle and bustle of the Medina below. 

View of the Jemaa el Fna square below
A Morocco traditional food called a Chicken Bastilla. It is a pastry filled with chicken and has a sweet taste of sugar and cinnamon along with a chicken centre.

It was an amazing day walking and exploring the narrow streets and alleys in the Medina. The hustle and bustle made for an adventure beyond the normal shopping experience. Prices of items were negotiated and involved a long drawn out negotiation that  eventually resulted in an agreement on a price. 

Truly an enjoyable day.

“عش كل يوم كما لو كان يومك الأخير، يومًا ما سيكون هذا صحيحًا.”

Morocco

Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech

We went for a visit to the Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech, which is a large garden that extends over 9,000 m². It is said to be one of the most enchanting and mysterious gardens in Morocco. The garden was created over the course of forty years and is enclosed by outer walls. 

The outer wall of the Majorelle Gardens

Inside the Garden there are multiple walkways on different levels with unique and interesting plants. We took the first walkway and began to explore this large garden full of amazing plants and flowers.

We walked through the different paths admiring the variety of plants and listened to the many birds singing. It seemed at every turn we would come across another unique feature. 

There were frogs, turtles and even large fish. It was very relaxing and peaceful walk. We came to some brightly coloured buildings with some water features.

The French painter Jacques Majorelle created the large and luxuriant garden as a sanctuary and botanical ‘laboratory’. In 1922, he began planting it with exotic botanical specimens from the far corners of the world.

Ray and Shelley in Majorelle Gardin in Marrakech.

 

As we walked along the different walkways we came across different type plants including large sections of different cactus plants. 

We even came to a bamboo “forest” within the garden. These bamboo where quite tall and very green.

We spent an hour or so exploring the Jardin Mojorelle. It was a great relaxing way to start our adventures in Morocco. 

“السفر – يمنحك منزلا في آلاف الأماكن الغريبة ، ثم يتركك غريبا في أرضك.” -Ibn Battuta (1304 – 1368) 

Spain

Wine tour in Requena Spain

We went on a trip for a few days to visit the town of Requena in eastern Spain. It is located on the left bank of the river Magro. The town has a long history and at one time was used as a Moorish fortress. The moors occupied Spain for around 800 years, from 711 to 1492. 

Part of the fortress in Requena Spain

Requena is dominated by the ancient citadel of the Moors, and still has traces of the original town walls.

Church front of Arciprestal Del Salvador in Requena
The Iglesia Arciprestal del Salvador is Renaissance-style, Roman Catholic church. It was erected in the 15th century.

We walked and explored some of the streets of the older section of Requena. 

One of the narrow streets in Requena
A narrow street in Requena

Another interesting fact about Requena is the existence of a labyrinth of caves located underneath the streets. Between the 12th and 13th centuries during the Muslim period, caves were excavated and used for storage and protection. 

One of the gated and locked entrances into the labyrinth of caves under the old quarter of Requena.

There are 22 caves that can still be found in Requena today. Many homes in Requena’s old quarter have a cave as part of the house. Thanks to geology, it was possible to easily excavate the subsoil which was done by the moors.

Entrance into the Historic Murviedro bodega.

We had the opportunity to visit the Murviedro’s Historic Winery located in the old quarter of Requena.

Entering into the cave system under Requena

Through part of the tour we explored some of the ancient caves under the city.

Ancient containers used for wine storage

It was like going back in time and experiencing the sensation of a different era. The bodega kept some of the original wine containers and in the original condition. 

 

Original clay cast for storage of olive oil or wine.

After exploring the caves of the winery we were able to enjoy a fantastic wine tasting of their different wines.

Overall It was a great experience and provided us with a snapshot of ancient times through the caves of Requena.

We finished our day by walking along the small alleys that led to the edge of the city, where we admired the stunning sunset.

A very enjoyable and memorable trip to Requena Spain.

“En la variedad está el gusto”