Camino de Santiago, Spain

Leaving Lugo on the camino towards Santiago de compostela

We had rested up in Lugo and Shelley’s  knee was feeling better. We headed out early and restarted our journey along the camino. It was a beautiful morning and one of the first sites we came to was the Roman bridge at the outskirts of Lugo.  At the foot of the bridge was a statue of a Roman standing guard.

Statue of Roman guarding the Roman bridge
Roman bridge at the outskirts of Lugo

We took our time and enjoyed a slow pace and scenery as we progressed.

After a while Shelley’s knee began to hurt.   We stopped along the way a few times but her knee continued to get worse.  We walked along the camino for approximately 7 kms when Shelley’s knee was inflamed and very painful. We were afraid that it could cause some permanent damage to her knee. We decided that I should continue the camino alone and that she would take at taxi the remaining way to Santiago. There was a camino marker where we stopped so Shelley placed her stone on the marker. We contacted a taxi and she went ahead via taxi to Santiago de Compostela.

It was a sad time for us but we knew that it was the right choice. At this point I began the remainder of the camino solo.  I continued along the camino until I reached a small shrine along the side of the trail. It was quite peaceful and a perfect spot for me to stop and enjoy a snack.

I continued along the camino which was ascending over time, I came to some beautiful views and trails in that area of the camino..

I even met some of the local animals along the camino.

I walked another 20 some kilometres before stopping for the night. It was a day of mixed emotions I was sad not having Shelley with me on this section of the camino. I knew it was only 70 kilometres or so to go and I was excited to finish the last few days to arrive in Santiago.

¨Buen camino¨

Camino de Santiago, Spain

Our stay in Lugo

When we got to Lugo Shelley´s knee was quite sore and swollen. We decided to stay in Lugo for a few days and take a break in the hopes her knee would get better. We were staying in the old town area of the city. This area is within the Roman walls of the city.

We walked along the outside of the fortified wall system until we reached one of the ten entrances in the wall system.

One of the five original Roman gates referred to as the porto de San Pedro

The Roman wall of Lugo was designated a UNESCO world Heritage site in 2000. The walls of Lugo were built in the later part of the 3rd century to defend the Roman town of Lucus Augusti. The entire length of the wall survives intact which is over two kilometres and is the finest example of late Roman fortifications in western Europe.

Outer view of the Roman wall in Lugo

We settled into Lugo for a few days of rest and took short walks the first day to explore some of the city.  It was not long before we noticed a very Roman look to parts of the city.

Ray on the Roman chariot

There were several access points along the Roman wall which allowed people to walk along the top of the wall.

One of the access points to the top of the Roman wall

We decided to walk the entire wall exploring the views from the top of the wall.

One of the views from the top of the Roman wall

We walked along the entire wall which is quite large. The wall width  is around 4.2 metres (14 ft) and their height varies between 8 metres (26 ft) and 12 metres (39 ft). We took our time and stopped along the way to admire the views and take in the moment.

Shelley on the top of the Roman wall in Lugo

There was some unique and beautiful views from the top of the wall.

We came across a unique part of the wall which had remains of a tower section.

Ray and Shelley at the tower section of the Roman wall

The following day we explored some of the parks and squares of Lugo. We came across some interesting people along the way.

We stoped along our walk and took time to enjoy some refreshments at one of the many bars in Lugo.

Shelley and Ray enjoying a refreshment at one of the bars in Lugo

We came across some great spots to eat and enjoy a refreshing drink. Ray even tried a specialty of Spain called “oreja de cerdo”. It is fried pig ears in a sauce. Ray did not enjoy it because the ears were really spongy and had very little actual meat on them.

Oreja de cerdo

One restaurant even had it´s own Camino Marker inside the restaurant.

Camino marker inside a restaurant in Lugo

We enjoyed our rest and stay over in Lugo, it was time that we could rest up and prepare for the next sections of the camino Primitivo. Shelley´s knee was doing better and so we packed our last evening preparing to start out early the next day to continue the camino adventure.

“Buen Camino”

 

Camino de Santiago, Spain

Highlights of some of the Camino De Santiago -Primitivo

The different days along the Camino De Santiago are unique and yet very similar in some aspects. Although each day brings new vistas and experiences they also bring similarities and rituals. Each morning we would awake early and get ready for the day.  There was a ritual of cleaning up, stretches and applying our anti blister balm on our feet before starting the days camino.  We would start out without breakfast or coffee. Walking the camino until we would find a place to stop for breakfast and coffee. On other days we would take our coffee and snack to go.

snacks and coffee on the go.

We carried a small amount of food in case of long gaps between places. On some days it was not until noon or even later before we came to our first cafe or food spot. 

From the town of Salas we continued to head upwards higher into the mountains of northern Spain.  It seemed at times that we were always ascending or descending. 

Shelley along one of the many climbs towards the windmill along the Camino Primitivo

At this point Shelley had twisted her knee and it was causing her difficulty and pain. We decided to send out packs ahead to lessen the weight on her knee. We would take more breaks along the way. This was also a chance to stop and enjoy the amazing views. 

Going up towards the windmills on the Primitivo
The Dam at the reservoir of Embalse de Salime on the Camino Primitivo.

This dam was amazing to see and is a designated world heritage site.

Ray along the ridge area of the camino de Primitivo
The view along the primitivo in the upper section of the mountains.

The further along we went unfortunately the worse Shelley´s knee became until we decided that we would stop at Lugo and take a few extra days to recuperate and see if her knee would get better. 

The primitivo is an amazing route with spectacular views. Here are just some of the vistas we saw along our way to Lugo from Salas. It was an amazing section of the primitivo but not for the faint of heart as the route is very taxing and difficult with steep and long ascends through the mountains. 

We arrived at Lugo and we were grateful for the few days of rest before continuing on the camino. The city of Lugo is beautiful and we enjoyed being a tourist in the city for a while.. But that is for another post.

“Disfruta de cada momento y experiencias de la vida”

Camino de Santiago, Spain

Grado to Salas on the Camino Primitivo

We walked from the town of Grado to Salas on the Camino Primitivo. The trail was more enjoyable than our first day because the rain had finally stopped.  We started the day around 8am with a coffee and tea to go. It was a nice way to start the camino.  Soon this section of the camino began to ascend upwards to the pass of Alto del Fresno.  It was not too long of an ascend but it was fairly steep. We stopped several times along the climb to catch our breath and to enjoy some of the beautiful views.

A view part way up the ascend from Grado towards Salas.

As we reached the top, Ray took a photo with his Valerie flutter key chain, which he carries with him when he travels. This is in honour of Valerie Goneau his second cousin.  (see previous post)  https://wp.me/p6PTzi-1zS  

Once we reached the top, it was not long before we then began walking downwards. The walk down was challenging because of the strain is was causing on our knees and feet.  

Shelley walking down the incline after reaching the pass of Alto del Fresno.

The trail was not always easy going, there was a fair amount of mud because of the heavy rain the day before. There were times that the terrain was quite slippery and uneven. We were glad we had our walking sticks to help navigate through the muddy areas.

 

The mud and water on the trails of the camino Primitivo

We walked a total of 26 kilometers this day and the trail and views were quite enjoyable. Here is a video and a few pictures from that day.

Shelley on the Camino Primitivo

Shelley taking a well deserved rest along the Camino

Some of the Camino trail brought us close to farms and at times we walked through the cow trails between the barns.

Selfie with one of the local cows
One of the cow trails along the Camino Primitivo

We arrived finally at our next stop in Salas. Our feet and bodies were glad that we had reached our destination for the day.

We rested and enjoyed some down time before starting our next day.

¨Buen Camino¨

 

Camino de Santiago, Spain

The start of the Camino Primitivo

We started our camino de Santiago by taking a train from Alicante to the town of Oviedo in Asturias. We stayed the night in Oviedo before starting our camino the next morning.

The cathedral of St. Saviour  in Oviedo which is the starting point of the Camino Primitivo

Oviedo is the starting point for the Camino Primitivo and was the starting point of Alfonso II the Chaste King of Asturias who took this route in the 9th century to see the recently discovered tomb of St James the Apostle. 

We began the camino in the pouring rain from Oviedo. Our spirits were high with excitement and determination.

We set out at 7:30 in the morning from the Cathedral. We walked for a short while and before long we were in the countryside.

Park on the edge of Oviedo
At the outskirts of Oviedo,

There was lush greenery everywhere and the camino soon began to narrow into a trail. 

We walked through the rain into some steep declines and inclines along the rail. Some of the trail was very rough and required that we walk slowly and carefully to avoid slipping or falling. 

Part of the trail along camino Primitivo between Oviedo and Grado.

Although it was raining the entire day, along our journey we came across some beautiful small communities, sites and views. 

Our first day was a challenge, we walked the entire day in the rain.

Rain water flowing down the road like a small river.

Although it was difficult at times, our enthusiasm and spirits remained high. 

Shelley and Ray on the Camino Primitivo between Oviedo and Grado

We walked around 28 kilometers and finished our day in a town called Grado. We were tired but content for completing day one of our camino.

We settled into our room and although we had ponchos and rain jackets we were partly soaked. Our waterproof hiking boots had been exposed to rain, mud and water the entire time.  It turned out that the hiking boots were not quite waterproof. 

Feet wrinkled by walking in wet shoes

We cleaned up, changed into dry clothes and enjoyed a well deserved refreshment.

We enjoyed a well deserved refreshment and celebrated our achievement of day one.

¨Buen Camino¨

Life is too short to wait for adventure!